Christmas in Rome: the Piazza Navona, St Peter’s and the nativity scenes

The market on the Piazza Navona

Each Advent, stalls of sweets, toys and decorations fill the long oval of the Piazza Navona around Bernini’s Fountain of the Four Rivers, and stay until the Epiphany. Roma Capitale and Turismo Roma publish the dates each year.

The tree and the nativity in St Peter’s Square

Every year a great Christmas tree and a nativity scene are set up in St Peter’s Square, in front of the basilica. The Vatican announces the dates of the lighting and the ceremonies on its official sites.

Christmas Eve Mass in St Peter’s Basilica is attended by ticket; tickets are issued without charge by the Prefecture of the Papal Household. Never pay a third-party site for them.

The presepi: nativity scenes across the city

Many of Rome’s churches set up a presepio, a nativity scene, for the season, from small cribs to elaborate scenes. Walk from church to church in the Centro Storico and Trastevere, and respect services in progress.

Christmas Eve and Christmas Day at table

Roman families traditionally eat fish on Christmas Eve and gather for a long lunch on Christmas Day. Many trattorias close on 25 December, so book early; the grand hotels publish their festive menus on their own websites.

New Year and La Befana

The season ends on 6 January, the Epiphany, when Italian children wait for La Befana, the kindly witch who brings sweets, or coal, to children. It is also the last day of the market on the Piazza Navona.

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